Shed light, not tears: Build a better garden shed

If your lifestyle demands a bit more storage outside of your house and garage, you are in need of either a good purge or a good shed.

Seriously, many homeowners, especially those who want to actually park their cars in their garages, need an additional workshop space or spot for lawn and garden tools and equipment, bicycles, pool and patio paraphernalia, and other outdoor-related possessions. If a metal or vinyl prefab utility shed suits your needs and your budget, any home improvement center will have several from which to choose. But if you are looking to go a more custom route to add character to your outdoor space, please keep reading.

DIYers are in luck, as there are many tool shed kits and plans available. But regardless of whether you choose to do it yourself or hire a contractor, options abound for sheds that are not just functional but visually appealing. These small outbuildings – usually at least 6-by-6-foot – are best placed where conveniently accessed , not visible from the street, and where they avoid blocking sight lines or access to other parts of the property. To avoid overwhelming your property, depending on its acreage, of course, you might not want to build too much larger than an 8-by-10 or 10-by-12-foot structure.

Corners of yards often work well for placement, but avoid low-lying areas, as drainage can become an issue. A dry, level area slightly elevated from the surrounding terrain is ideal. If drainage poses a concern, surrounding the shed with a bed of gravel or even building the shed on top of gravel is wise.

Sometimes gravel-filled trenches with pressure-treated 6-by-6’s to which the joists are attached are all the foundation that is needed. Other times, a floor built more like a deck with footings, posts and a wood frame is desirable, or even a concrete slab. If your shed is large, say, more than 200 square feet, foundations become a bit of a different ballgame requiring permanent foundations that extend down to the frost line. Clearance of some 3 feet around the shed keep it exposed to air and sunlight, which can help avoid issues with moisture and mildew.


Before becoming married to a location – or even to a shed, for that matter – check building and zoning codes, as there are regulations about size, property line setback and more. Before you call, have a general size for your structure in mind so that the information you obtain is specific to your project. Similarly, homeowners’ associations often have their own sets of rules and guidelines, so be sure your plans are in compliance to avoid conflict and potentially costly redos.

In terms of style, your shed certainly need not mimic the architecture of your home, but it should at least be complementary to your house and the surrounding neighborhood. That is easily achieved typically in one of several ways: mimicking your home’s roof profile – pitch, hip, gambrel, etc.; replicating roofing and siding materials; repeating colors, not only of siding and roof but of the door and trim; adding windows, including dormers; and incorporating other architectural features like columns, brackets and cupolas, maybe even a weathervane. Incorporating recycled materials and architectural salvage can really infuse your shed with charm.

Homey touches like a covered porch, a lamp and/or sconces, and a walkway are not only appealing, but practical. Fencing, potted plants, trellises with climbing vines (with room for air circulation), and other foundational type plantings help integrate the structure into its setting. Bird baths and feeders, “yard art” and decorative wall-mounted objects, door mats and furnishings – maybe even a gravel, brick, or paver patio – add the finishing touches.

On the inside, most sheds are highly utilitarian with unfinished framing and enough shelving, pegboards, hooks and bins to hold whatever needs held. Electrical outlets are a nice extra, especially if your shed is going to be used as a workshop but also in case you need extra lighting or, perhaps, a fan. Plumbing may or may not be a luxury, as a utility sink may be necessary for the function of your shed.

If your riding lawn mower will be housed in the shed and your shed is elevated, you will need a ramp. Both hinged and sliding doors work well in sheds, but if using the former, be sure to allow for the narrowed opening that hinges create so that your mower, wheelbarrow and other larger items fit through.

Photos of impossibly inventive and attractive sheds are rife on the internet. Peruse as many as you can so that you achieve the shed of your dreams from the get-go. Though sheds are one of the least expensive structures you can erect on your property, you still want to get it right the first time.

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, served as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, contact or go to


These kitchen storage solutions can be incorporated into existing space, a remodel or new construction

The hardest- working room in your home often presents the most storage challenges, but also the most storage opportunities.

We are all familiar with the flip-down drawer below the kitchen sink for sponges and scrubbers, or appliance garages, but here I offer about a dozen additional options you may not have considered. Each can be incorporated into your existing kitchen, a remodel or new construction. Some are definitely DIY-appropriate, while you might prefer to hire a contractor for others. As with most home improvements, a comprehensive – rather than piecemeal – plan conceived in conjunction with someone with some degree of expertise is the smartest approach.

When we think about storage, there are both concealed and visible options. Homeowners have to decide how much of the latter they can tolerate and then try to build in as much of the former as possible to manage the rest.

Concealed storage Of the concealed variety, drawers, cabinets and pantries are the workhorses of most kitchens, with open shelving gaining popularity today. Most homeowners have long stored stacks of plates in upper cabinets, but folks are realizing that heavy plates are more easily lifted up than lifted down. This is where large lower drawers come into play. Consider inserting a movable peg system into a deep drawer to securely accommodate stacks of plates with varying diameters.

Similarly practical are deep drawers for pots with integrated rollouts in the upper portion to hold lids or flatter items, like trivets or even potholders. Another deep-drawer system for pots includes a partition at the back to hold the lids.

Lazy Susans are often installed in corners to make use of that deep under-counter space, but you might consider corner drawers instead. Though the shape of these drawers results in a pair of triangular-shaped compartments in the front, small items like spice jars fit there nicely. And these drawers’ narrow width and extra depth is generally welcome.

In regard to virtually all drawers and cabinets, one word comes to mind: retractable. Retractable shelves, baskets and the like dramatically increase the functionality of these spaces. For upper cabinets, consider pull-downs so that items in the back are easily reachable.

We don’t typically think about seating in relation to storage, but seating does take up valuable real estate in a kitchen eating area, like a bar or island. Why not consider vintage-style swivel stools that tuck out of sight when not in use but easily rotate into place as needed?

A simple solution is to store some items in an adjacent area like a breakfast room, dining room or even living space. But what about the stairs? While most people who live in two-story homes have already made use of their under-stair storage space, usually in the form of a closet, many people have not considered converting the bottom few stairs to drawers. Someone with building expertise should take on this task, as the strength and stability of the stairs must not be compromised. It would be so handy to store flatter items like trays, cutting boards, baking sheets or place mats in these stair drawers, since, in many homes, they are located near the kitchen and dining room.


Visible storage One of the sleekest visible storage solutions is a kitchen rail system. Generally stainless steel, this type of system may not be appropriate for all styles of kitchens, but it places within easy reach frequently used tools and other items. This frees up drawer, cabinet and counter space . Depending on the system, which is typically installed beneath upper cabinets or floating shelving, homeowners can choose between a highly functional and handsome range of components to mix and match with their rails and brackets: mini-shelves, cylindrical utensil holders, rectangular compartments, herb pots and much more.

For those who don’t mind a somewhat fuller look, shelves above windows or doorways can create a great deal of storage space for both decorative and functional items.

If cabinet space is limited, but floor space is less so, an attractive lidded or unlidded basket might be the ideal place to stand up cutting and bread boards. Keep in mind that if you have a pet who sheds, fur may collect in or around the basket.

If pantry space is also limited, consider decanting your herbs and spices into small magnetic canisters and adhering them to the side of your fridge, assuming one side is open and conveniently located to your stove or food preparation area.

And speaking of counters, one of our favorite uncommon solutions is a countertop with an integrated bowl or seamless depression in the surface of the counter meant to prevent eggs and other round fruits and vegetables from rolling off the counter.

Another is a cutting board with a hole positioned over a receptacle so that trimmings can easily be swept into the waste bin, and conveniently removed.

Hopefully, some of these ideas may solve some of your stickiest storage issues.

If you have a question about building, remodeling or storage solutions – or have a storage solution you would like to share – please send them to me at

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, served as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, go to

Be smart about smartifying your home – it can get complicated

Ever since homes started getting smarter, “smart” has referred to rapidly evolving technological options for controlling virtually all of the systems in your home. Who thought, even five years ago, that we would be talking to an inanimate object named Alexa – and she would respond?

At its simplest, a “smart” product is one with an internet connection (in order to receive commands and software updates) that you can control with your phone or tablet or through a central hub (automation controller or bridge). These devices perform at least one of three functions: They sense, process and/or respond.

Today’s smart home is all about app-controlled gadgets accessible remotely from your phone that give you more convenient control over the following: appliances (e.g. coffee makers), entertainment ( TV streaming devices), HVAC ( energy-saving thermostats), lighting ( smart bulbs and switches), security ( locking mechanisms, indoor/outdoor cameras with motion detection, two-way communication) and various storage capabilities. They also offer either self- or subscription-monitored smoke detectors and alarms), smart power outlets, pet and elder care (e.g. pet feeding), and even cleaning and maintenance (e.g. robotic vacuuming and mowing).

But raising your home’s IQ isn’t as straightforward as you might hope. Choosing a platform like Apple HomeKit, Google Home or Samsung SmartThings may be the most straightforward approach to creating a home automation network – either fully automated or semi-autonomous – that interfaces with smartphones and tablets while linking devices together.

These and other similar platforms are, essentially, kits with a number of compatible devices. At least in theory, proprietary devices made by the same manufacturer should happily communicate with each other because they use the same wireless standard or, at least, understand different protocols (WiFi, Bluetooth, Zigbee, Z-Wave and more). However, most smart devices will work independently.

Smart homes can offer TV displays that’s hidden by a mirror.

The benefit of buying single platform-compatible devices is that they can all be controlled from one hub and one app, rather than from multiple hubs and apps. A hub should be able to bring together signals from different devices, allowing them to be controlled by the hub’s app when the hub is connected to the home’s network via WiFi or wired network connection.

Do your research and read the fine print. Frustration with the inability of proprietary devices made by different manufacturers to communicate with each other is leading other manufacturers to produce gadgets that work with all smart home platforms. The up- and downsides? While new partnerships and integrations are continually being added, devices can quickly become outdated.

The bottom line? Don’t lose your phone. Seriously, be smart about smartifying your home.

Before you connect, be clear about your needs related to tasks and routines, prioritize them, start with a few high-priority basics, choose a platform that supports as many of them as possible, and base future buying decisions accordingly. Avoid bewildering yourself and overcomplicating things if you don’t have to. And if a device or capability doesn’t make your home safer, save money, save time or increase enjoyment of your home, it may not be a smart choice for you.

Getting started can seem overwhelming and, while much of the technology is considered do-it-yourself, you might prefer to hire a professional to help you navigate this brave new world.

If you have a question on building, remodelingor raising your home’s IQ, please send them to

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, served as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, contact or go to

Exterior Siding and Cladding

Building or remodeling a home is usually based on space needs and aesthetics. One of the most public decisions regarding appearance is surely your choice of siding material. But I encourage you to also consider other factors when choosing this all-important material, especially factors like protection, durability and, realistically, how willing you are to maintain it. Also, if you have a homeowners association, your selection may require its approval. Following are more specific considerations, alphabetized by type of material:

BRICK Nothing says “built-to-last” like brick. In our area, many of the middle-century ranch homes, as well as Colonial- and Tudor-style homes, are clad in brick or brick veneer. The latter requires a moisture barrier between the veneer and the home’s wooden frame. Bricks, which are made from fired clay, come in a wide range of rich and subtle colors, but they are labor-intensive to install – and they can be more difficult to match if you ever add on – so be sure to include that installation cost in your tally.yu3a0462

Example of Fiber-Cement Siding

FIBER-CEMENT SIDING Fiber-cement siding may be the best option for many homeowners. Not only does its natural look mimic masonry, stucco or wood with less expense, but it is low maintenance while resisting flames and termites. Expert installation helps ensure you will encounter no moisture-related issues from this product, which is available in a spectrum of colors, styles and textures. Expect it to last from 25 to 50 years.

STONE Stone and natural or synthetic stone veneer (lighter weight and less expensive), if chosen with restraint – otherwise it can look gaudy – provides long-lasting natural beauty and durability. Texture and visual interest are its hallmarks, as is its cost. So stone may be a good choice to combine with another material, adding visual interest to selected architectural features, like around a front entrance.

STUCCO Stucco, familiar to most of us from Spanish Mission- and Mediterranean-style homes, is typically made of sand, Portland cement, lime and water. It requires a moisture barrier and galvanized metal screening underneath for protection. Installation is of paramount importance to prevent cracks from developing in this rigid material. Dryvit is a synthetic stucco-look material that was very popular in our area years back, but got a bad rap due to costly moisture problems resulting from improper installation. Exterior Insulation and Finish System, or EIFS (polystyrene panels with an acrylic coating), is the broader term for synthetic stucco, which is still a viable option, provided it is installed by professionals and maintained properly. The latter includes regular inspection of the surface for punctures, especially after a storm, and the caulked joints – which real stucco does not have – for damage. Other limitations include that EIFS siding should not touch the ground where it could potentially soak up ground water, nor should it have anything attached to it, like a mailbox or flag pole, that could puncture the surface.

VINYL SIDING Vinyl siding is the most popular choice, offering low cost of material and installation, versatility of colors and styles, low maintenance, durability and, should you be a DIYer, installation that you could potentially take on yourself. If you can get past its “plastic” appearance, it may be your best option.

Example of Vinyl Siding

WOOD For a rich, organic, authentic look, wood – available as clapboard or lap siding, shakes and shingles – is hard to beat. Especially appropriate for bungalow-, Cape Cod- and cottage-style homes, as we know from examples of historic architectures, wood is durable if it is maintained properly. And in our coastal climate, staying on top of that requires real commitment to painting and staining. Wood is also attractive to critters, but it can be treated for fire-retardance. Western red cedar and redwood are thought to offer the most visual appeal and durability. When figuring the cost, be sure to figure in more labor-intensive installation as well as finishing.

Send questions to Virginia Beach native and JMU graduate Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors and is past chairman of the TBA Remodeler’s Council.

Insulate: over, under and around

Proper insulation for our homes is an important cost, comfort and ecological consideration, regardless of the outdoor temperatures. But we tend to think more about insulation as the mercury starts to drop and frigid winds pick up. If you are building, remodeling or simply thinking of swapping out existing insulation in those areas of your home that are accessible, you will want to keep reading.


Essentially, you can choose between four types of insulation: two types of batts and two types of spray-in foam, each with benefits and drawbacks. Batts, both fiberglass and cotton, are perfectly sized to fit in the spaces between the standard spacing of wood supports in walls and ceilings. Paper-backed to provide a moisture barrier, batts are an effective and very economical choice, and they’re easy to install, except in odd-shaped spaces. Cotton batts, made from recycled denim jeans, offer the added benefit of being a bit more eco-minded, though at a slightly higher price, while fibers released by fiberglass batts are not healthy to breathe, at least not for the installer. Once they are sealed inside walls, they are thought to pose little hazard.

Open cell polyurethane foam is soft and lightweight and can be blown into the oddest-shaped and hardest-to-reach spaces. Homeowners can expect a better insulation value along with better protection from drafts. They also can expect to pay significantly more. Its cousin, closed cell foam, is denser because of sealed air pockets filled with an insulating gas, which provides greater insulation value and greater moisture protection while actually strengthening the structure. But you can expect to pay even more for these perks. You also can expect to have to cut it away if wires or pipes are added in the future.

There is also rigid foam sheathing or foam board, which is applied to the exterior of the home. Though it is a bit more expensive and not as strong as plywood sheathing (which doesn’t matter if you apply it over the plywood), rigid foam board provides better insulation than plywood alone while doing some heavy lifting against moisture (by preventing both leaks and accumulation) and against air leakage. Rigid foam controls both air infiltration and exfiltration, unlike some house wraps which only guard against the former.

Since it is so important, what exactly is the aforementioned insulation value? R-value refers to the transfer of heat between the interior and exterior of your home, what professionals refer to as thermal resistance. The higher the number, the less transfer because there is greater resistance. With less heat conduction, you can expect energy savings, which are good for your wallet and good for the environment. Today’s homes can achieve an R-value of R-15 up to a R-19 in walls and R-38 in the attic.

Once you understand the science behind this heat conductivity, you will undoubtedly discover that air-sealing your home – creating a tight envelope, as we say – goes hand-in-hand with insulating. That is, R-values alone do not tell the whole story. Addressing both radiation (air moving from a hotter to a cooler material) and convection (the movement of heat and moisture) ensures that your home is the most energy-efficient and comfortable that it can be.

And don’t forget your crawl space. Insulation materials and vapor barriers are also right at home here, whether your crawl space is ventilated or not. If ventilated, you will want to insulate under the subfloor and between the floor joists, while if unventilated, you will instead want to insulate the walls, perhaps with a vapor barrier over the dirt floor.

Though all this talk of R-values, roofs and crawl spaces isn’t terribly sexy, you can further insulate your home with eye-appealing window- and glass-door treatments, such as insulated drapes and cellular blinds. It’s never too late to better insulate.

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, served as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, contact or go to

Home for Sale at the North End of Virginia Beach, VA

Our North End spec home is NOW up for sale!! Here are some sneak peak photos of this gorgeous new home! Call Chas Ferguson or Larry Blum at 757-416-8280 to schedule a showing.

Air Conditioning: Creating a healthy and comfortable environment for your home

When we think of air conditioning, we think of cooling our home during our hot, humid summers here in Hampton Roads.  It’s interesting to note that cooling has been around in one form or another for thousands of years. Early civilizations such as the Romans and others circulated water from their water sources within the walls of their buildings in addition to several other methods to help cool their buildings.  Needless to say, modern air conditioning has been one of the major advances in science and technology that has allowed us to enjoy the comforts of living in our modern world.

In light of the above, when we think of air conditioning we think of cooling.  But the more accurate meaning of air conditioning is an integrated system which includes the implementation, maintenance, and control of heat, cooling, humidification, de-humidification, ventilation, and the removal of dust, micro-organisms, and other unhealthy bodies from your home.   Ultimately, air conditioning should address affordable comfort and health.

Proper air conditioning for your home starts with system design, which includes an accurate calculation of the heat and cooling requirements, air distribution (ductwork) and ventilation requirements and the cost of the various types of systems available. One note is that ventilation is becoming a very important requirement in today’s homebuilding world as houses are becoming tighter and tighter due to modern construction techniques and energy codes. Also the use of germicidal devices such as UV (ultraviolet) lights are lethal to mold spores, bacterial, and other micro-organisms and help provide for a healthy indoor environment.

Fortunately whether you are building a new residence for your family or remodeling your existing one, you have a variety of options from which to choose depending on your home’s design. Naturally, the higher the energy efficiency rated system you select, the higher the cost.  Though the air distribution system usually remains the same, the higher efficient equipment costs more.  A state licensed, experienced builder or state licensed, experienced HVAC contractor can help you choose the proper system for your needs and pocketbook to help you create a healthy, comfortable home that you will enjoy for years to come.

Without fully describing each type of available system, here is a brief explanation of some that are available in today’s marketplace:

  • Split System Cooling – These systems consist of an indoor cooling coil which is connected to an outside mounted condensing unit and require a separate source for heating your home, such as a gas or oil furnace.
  • Standard Air to Air Heat Pump System – This is one of the most prevalent types of air conditioning used in our moderate climate. This is also a split system which uses a reverse cycle for heating and cooling your home. Air to air heat pumps require some source of backup heat such as an electric heat strip because the system efficiency drops as the outside air temperature drops.
  • Hybrid Gas/Heat Pump – This option uses a split heat pump system in conjunction with a gas furnace. When the heat pump becomes less efficient, the heat pump shuts down and the gas furnace heats the home. This is an extremely efficient combination and gives the best comfort and lower energy bills.
  • Mini-Split Ductless Systems – This option gives you the benefit of not requiring ductwork. Mini-Splits can be floor, ceiling or wall mounted. One outdoor condensing unit can serve several indoor units thus giving you the opportunity to have zoning for separate rooms or areas. These come as either cooling or heat pump systems.
  • Ground Source Heat Pump (My Favorite) – The ground source heat pump uses the ground you walk on to heat and cool your home. It is the most efficient type of air conditioning system available. In our area, the earth’s ground temperature below approximately six feet is about 60 degrees year around. In the winter, through a series of horizontally or vertically installed pipes, heat is transferred from the earth and, in conjunction with a heat pump, heats your home. In the summer, the heat pump reverses its cycle and removes the heat from your home and transfers it to the much cooler 60 degree earth. Also available is an option that can provide an abundant supply of domestic hot water, virtually free in the summer months. A major plus to this type of system is that there is no outside piece of equipment that is subject to our harsh sea coast environment.  And guess what?  There is no outside equipment noise.

As one can see, there are many options from which to choose.  Plus, there are numerous products manufactured today that can help you create a healthy home while increasing your leisure time, such as remotely operated programmable thermostats that allow you to control the temperature in your home from anywhere. And there are numerous manufacturers of electronically controlled zoning systems that allow you to control the temperatures in individual areas using only one central air conditioning system. In addition to the UV light mentioned earlier, very efficient filtering systems are available for your health and comfort. Many of today’s homes are built so tight (energy efficient) that outside air is required. The installation of a central, energy efficient ventilation unit can provide you and your family with clean, fresh outside air while exhausting the stale inside air to the outdoors creating a healthy indoor environment.

Last but not least is the proper maintenance for this healthy, energy efficient system you have just purchased. Proper care not only helps maintain the efficiency of the system but will increase the lifetime of the equipment, giving you a long lifecycle for your investment. Proper maintenance should include tasks such as cleaning the indoor and outdoor coils and cleaning condensate drain pans and installing algae tablets in the pans to prevent algae and slime buildup in the drain pans. Filters should be changed on a regular basis, normally every 90 days depending on your indoor environment. Electrical components should be inspected and temperature readings should be taken and recorded for future maintenance tune-ups and proper cleaning.  Fans and other mechanisms should be checked for proper amperage draws and all major components should be inspected and cleaned. Professional tune-ups and cleaning is a must for maintaining an efficient operating system.

Remember, an efficient air conditioning system is one of the best investments one can make. Some highly efficient air conditioning systems have paybacks within anywhere from three to five years. Where else can you make a basically risk-free investment and get a 20% to 33% return while at the same time provide your family with a comfortable and healthy home?


Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, serves as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, contact or go to



Putting the ‘room’ in ‘mudrooms’

The term mudroom is a bit of a misnomer nowadays because, while these hardworking entry spaces see a lot of action, mud is seldom part of the picture.


Originally used to stash muddy boots to prevent tracking into the main part of the house, mudrooms now most often function like a secondary foyer. Here are some thoughts to help make your mudroom look more like an appealing room in your home and less like a utilitarian passageway.

Typically located just off a home’s back or side entrance and used by family and close friends, mudrooms come in many shapes and sizes. Some are true rooms and are often combined with laundry facilities, while others are more of a pass-through space in which family members grab and go. The pass-throughs generally fall into one of four categories: hallway, nook (e.g. under the stairs), corner or closet. If a closet, many homeowners like to remove the door and attractively style the interior.

Layouts largely depend on how homeowners intend to use the space, of course, but also whether the mudroom was part of the original architectural design. Regardless, mudrooms tend to need the following: hooks and clips, cubbies, containers, seating and lighting.
Hooks are versatile in terms of both function and placement, as they can hold coats, scarves, handbags, backpacks, umbrellas, keys and much more. And they can be arranged in straight rows, both low and high, or placed on a wall in an artistic manner.


Cubbies generally refer to a custom or purchased contemporary “hall tree”-type divided unit with an open front – often vertical in a mudroom application and often in the popular locker style. However, unless carefully designed with restraint, built-in cabinetry can easily look bulky, heavy and a bit claustrophobic. Whether your compartments are closed or open – and perhaps labeled, if possible – a variety of baskets and bins will keep items neatly separated for easy retrieval. But, even though baskets may look nice on top of your unit, how likely is anyone to climb up there?

Benches, with either floor storage or contained storage underneath a lift-up top, are very popular and practical seating choices for mudrooms. They tend to be long and shallow, so they work particularly well for small, narrow spaces and multiple users. But, there is no rule that says a chair or stool is not perfectly acceptable for a mudroom. It might be just what you need.

Lighting – though perhaps not the brightest lighting if dog fur, dirt and dings to the baseboards are an issue – is an important consideration not only for practical purposes, but for creating the ambiance your desire.

Other features that are not essential, but nice to have include a mirror for a last check and to bounce light while enlarging the space; a charging station for cellphones and such; and a wall clock, so you needn’t check your phone as you dash in and out.

Styles run the gamut, but whatever the style of your mudroom, it should certainly complement the rest of your home, even if it is a bit more rustic or informal.

If your mudroom is going to take a beating, consider hard-wearing surfaces like tile on the floor and perhaps board-and-batten wainscoting instead of drywall. An indoor-outdoor rug that you treat as an annual purchase will reduce the chance of someone slipping, while adding color and texture.

You can also incorporate art and family photos, pillows, glass canisters with snacks and dog treats, message boards and general decorative items like floral arrangements and ever-popular painted signs.

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, serves as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. Contact or go to