Want a better closet? Here’s how to get started.

You might think that efficient, highly functional, and beautiful custom closet design begins with space planning. But you would be wrong. It begins with a purge.

Most people have clothing and other items tucked – or stuffed – into their closets that they haven’t touched in a year or more. Donate or discard all of those out-of-style, unneeded and unwanted items before you begin the closet design process. In doing so, you will best understand not only how many items you have, but what types. Even if your result is a few steps down from a boutique or haberdashery style space – for which we advocate – an accurate “audit” of what needs to fit back into the closet is the only way to plan a space tailored to your needs, whether you are designing a walk-in or reach-in closet.

Consider making a built in “hutch” the centerpiece of your new closet, complete with drawers, a catch-all surface on top, and shelves or cubbies above to save space in the bedroom by eliminating the need for a dresser. Then build out from there, thinking in terms of zones, especially if two people share the closet – or might in the future – and designing from the floor to the ceiling to make use of every square inch. No closet ever had too much storage space.

Decide what might be better folded or rolled, like sweaters and T-shirts – clothing made of fabrics that can stretch and become misshapen – and even jeans and shorts. Allot adjustable shelves – and maybe some handy rollouts. These could be cubbies or deep drawers. For ease of retrieval, it is best that folded items are not stacked more than 5 feet tall. The top shelves of your closet are the ideal place for bins that hold less frequently used items like luggage, totes and shoe bags for travel, or seasonal items like bathing suits.

Drawers with clear acrylic fronts make it easy to see what is inside, but may also contribute to visual clutter. Figure out which matters more to you and choose accordingly. Shallow drawers are nice for hosiery, underclothes and nightclothes, though some people prefer an open bin or basket on a shelf for quick retrieval of these items, especially, socks.

Those slanted shelves designed especially for shoes are not the most practical, adaptable or space-saving design. We recommend flat adjustable shelves to accommodate shoes of different heel and platform heights, as well as booties and boots. Save the most space by turning each pair heel to toe. Other items requiring shelf space that you might want to stash in your closet include linens and pillows for the adjacent bedroom and bath.

Clothing on hangers takes up the most space, but is, obviously, a necessity. Measure the width of your hanging clothes to determine exactly how much space you will require. Be sure to include long hanging space – usually some 18-24 inches in width – for women’s dresses. Consider hanging coats in a foyer or mudroom.

Most everything else can be double hung, but it is still a good idea to make sure that rods are adjustable. In a walk-in closet, hanging clothing can be concealed behind doors for a very upscale look. Just keep in mind that they will take up more space and, unless the area is expansive, could lend a closed-in feel. For the neatest, tidiest and most cohesive look even without doors, decide on one type of hanger – plastic, wood, or velvet; not wire! – and stick with it.

An array of other closet accessories is available, and one can easily get carried away. One that is practical, though, is a pull-out belt/tie rack. Another that we really like is the pull-out hamper located in the bottom section of double hung space. If two people share a closet, each person ideally will have his or her own hamper or, even better, a pair of them for separating different fabrics. We favor the bag-style that can be unhooked from its sliders and taken to the laundry room.

If your closet offers enough wall space – including behind a swing door – where anything built out will not work, many women, especially, like a rail-type system with hooks for jewelry, scarves, hats and the like. Being able to see all of your jewelry hanging over hooks or in organdy bags suspended from hooks means it is likely to get worn more often.

Lighting is as important in the well-designed closet as it is in a kitchen and bath. If you can accommodate natural lighting from a window, we highly recommend it, though some fabrics can fade in direct sunlight. Because you lose storage space on window walls, we find that the space beneath windows is the ideal spot for bench seating for putting shoes on and taking them off. A small sturdy bench that doubles as a kind of movable step stool is nice for retrieving items up high.

But you will also need overhead lighting, which can be as stylish as you choose; just make sure it is bright and not behind you, or your body will cast shadows on what you are trying to see. Opt for a cool type of bulb, as incandescent light fixtures can cause heat to build, and all of that fabric in an enclosed space can become a fire hazard.

Other considerations for your closet, if space allows, include a television, radio, flip-down ironing board, full-length mirror from which you can stand back about 3 feet, and wastebasket for laundry tags and bags, receipts left in your pockets, and the like. Closets can be difficult spaces in which to vacuum, but area rugs underfoot can feel nice.

By keeping these guidelines in mind, your closet may become the best room in your home.

If you have a question on building, remodeling, or designing your dream closet, please email me at chris@ vbhomesliving.com.

Virginia Beach native and James Madison University graduate Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors and is past chairman of the TBA Remodeler’s Council. Contact Ettel at Chris@vbhomesliving.com or go to www.vbhomesliving.com.

Putting the ‘room’ in ‘mudrooms’

The term mudroom is a bit of a misnomer nowadays because, while these hardworking entry spaces see a lot of action, mud is seldom part of the picture.

Originally used to stash muddy boots to prevent tracking into the main part of the house, mudrooms now most often function like a secondary foyer. Here are some thoughts to help make your mudroom look more like an appealing room in your home and less like a utilitarian passageway.

Typically located just off a home’s back or side entrance and used by family and close friends, mudrooms come in many shapes and sizes. Some are true rooms and are often combined with laundry facilities, while others are more of a pass-through space in which family members grab and go. The pass-throughs generally fall into one of four categories: hallway, nook (e.g. under the stairs), corner or closet. If a closet, many homeowners like to remove the door and attractively style the interior.

Layouts largely depend on how homeowners intend to use the space, of course, but also whether the mudroom was part of the original architectural design. Regardless, mudrooms tend to need the following: hooks and clips, cubbies, containers, seating and lighting.

Hooks are versatile in terms of both function and placement, as they can hold coats, scarves, handbags, backpacks, umbrellas, keys and much more. And they can be arranged in straight rows, both low and high, or placed on a wall in an artistic manner.

 

Cubbies generally refer to a custom or purchased contemporary “hall tree”-type divided unit with an open front – often vertical in a mudroom application and often in the popular locker style. However, unless carefully designed with restraint, built-in cabinetry can easily look bulky, heavy and a bit claustrophobic. Whether your compartments are closed or open – and perhaps labeled, if possible – a variety of baskets and bins will keep items neatly separated for easy retrieval. But, even though baskets may look nice on top of your unit, how likely is anyone to climb up there?

Benches, with either floor storage or contained storage underneath a lift-up top, are very popular and practical seating choices for mudrooms. They tend to be long and shallow, so they work particularly well for small, narrow spaces and multiple users. But, there is no rule that says a chair or stool is not perfectly acceptable for a mudroom. It might be just what you need.

Lighting – though perhaps not the brightest lighting if dog fur, dirt and dings to the baseboards are an issue – is an important consideration not only for practical purposes, but for creating the ambiance your desire.

Other features that are not essential, but nice to have include a mirror for a last check and to bounce light while enlarging the space; a charging station for cellphones and such; and a wall clock, so you needn’t check your phone as you dash in and out.

Styles run the gamut, but whatever the style of your mudroom, it should certainly complement the rest of your home, even if it is a bit more rustic or informal.

If your mudroom is going to take a beating, consider hard-wearing surfaces like tile on the floor and perhaps board-and-batten wainscoting instead of drywall. An indoor-outdoor rug that you treat as an annual purchase will reduce the chance of someone slipping, while adding color and texture.

You can also incorporate art and family photos, pillows, glass canisters with snacks and dog treats, message boards and general decorative items like floral arrangements and ever-popular painted signs.

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, serves as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. Contact Chris@vbhomesliving.com or go to www.vbhomesliving.com.